Expression Jacques Fath

Expression by Jacques Fath is a Oriental Floral fragrance for women. Expression was launched in 1977. The nose behind this fragrance is Raymond Chaillan. Top notes are Aldehydes, Mandarin Orange, Green Notes and Bergamot; middle notes are Honey, Galbanum, Carnation, Rose, Coriander, Ylang-Ylang and Iris; base notes are Beeswax, Leather, Ambergris, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Orris Root, Vetiver and Sandalwood.

From the shimmering of aldehydes in its opening to the haunting ambergris leather base, Expression would very well be a feat if reconstructed today. It’s fused by musks, fixatives and various materials that may today be restricted, banned, or prohibitively expensive. I cannot decide if it is magnificently of its time or has a cool, poetic timelessness to it. Some might scoff at it, roll their eyes, “I’ve smelled this before,” “what’s so special?” “A 70s chypre? Those were a dime a dozen in their time.” I, however, sense something different. Perfumer Raymond Chaillan added something mysterious here amongst the bitter galbanum shifting to metallic-rose and then into somber orris. Its amorphous quality makes me pause and pay close attention. The devil is in the details, and I am enjoying the challenge of deciphering while simply “feeling.” That dichotomy of cerebral and intuitive: I at first want to know technique, then in another sniff, I just want to lean into wonder and abandon any desire to “figure it out.”
There is a beautiful humility to Expression. Released in 1977, the same year as Opium (of which Chaillan also contributed his talent), Expression doesn’t seem to be built to impress disco dollies and gregarious hedonists. Its luxury is understated, lucid. Yet it penetrates, courtesy of an apiary in its heart and base: the mildly sweet, yet peculiar animalic tones of honey and beeswax. Peeling back the layers, the chill of crisp bergamot + green and aldehydic sparkle are softened and warmed up, making it feel more pliable (more intriguing amorphousness). There is a suspended phrase that smells like a just snuffed candle in a room of wildflowers and earth. Then another phrase that is more melodic, amber-like, woody, and serene. Forward we go, and it’s an impasto-thick musk with heavy, globular molecules that feel like a weighted blanket to ease anxiety, with the whisper of dried flowers, distant salty funk and dusty oakmoss clinging to time-worn bark.
Expression captures the melancholy of winter and the promise of the early spring thaw.

Jacques Fath, born in 1912 in Paris, France, was a French fashion designer viewed as one of the most crucial influences on postwar haute couture. He was raised in a creative family of fashion illustrators, writers and landscape painters.

Fath was very interested in fashion and creation, so he stepped into the world of haute couture by presenting his first collection in 1937. He owned a fashion salon which changed several locations in Paris: he started on Rue de la Boetie, then Rue Francois Premier and finally at 39 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie in 1944. He worked with many famous models and created very successful collections. The designer educated himself and learned his craft from studying museum exhibitions and books about fashion. He was later a teacher to numerous young designers who worked as his assistants and apprentices, such as Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche and Valentino Garavani.

Fath was known as the “little prince of Paris Haute couture in the 1950’s.” This innovative designer was a favorite to the chic young Parisienne, since he was using unusual materials such as sequins made of walnut and almond shells. Some of his clients were Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo, and Rita Hayworth.

The inventor of the bust, a competitor of Dior, one of the creators of the New Look style, Hollywood’s favorite fashion designer, the creator of legendary perfumes; all this is Jacques Fath. The little prince of high fashion, the insufferable child of perfume Paris, he, like a truly talented man, was talented in everything he took for granted. And even in such a short period of existence (1912-1954), the court assigned to him managed to leave a lot of brilliant masterpieces that caused a stir in the fashion and perfumery of the 60s. The first aroma by Jacques Fath CHASUBLE (Riza) was released in 1945, 2 years later, in the company of the famous French perfumer Vincent Robert, the classic aroma GREEN WATER (Green Water) was created, followed immediately by the mystical female spirits IRIS GRIS (Greek Iris). The success of these perfumes was so grandiose that in 1950 Jacques Fat decided to create his own perfume company. In 1950, Jacques Fat managed to present his numerous readers in Europe and America with the new fragrance CANASTA (Canasta, card game) and the legendary women’s perfume FATH de FATH in 1953.

After the death of Jacques Fatt, his widow sold the House of Fashion, but she could not part with the perfume company for a long time. Only a year later, the license to produce the original perfume from Jacques Fath became the property of the L’Orea l concern. The concern not only saved all those who wanted to buy perfumes of this brand and pleased them with the new aromas Fath’s Love (1968), Expression (1977), but also created a masterpiece that many collectors dream of finding these days – Ellipse perfumes, released jointly with the S.A.R. factory. pair of Kachian Takieddine (Syria) in 1972 in the daytime, and in 1974 in the evening versions had a stunning commercial success in France, countries in Asia and Scandinavia, in the USA. In 1979, the right to release this aroma was fully transferred to Syrian partners, and in 1984 it was withdrawn from production.

Fath died of leukemia in 1953 and the house continued functioning until 1957. His widow ran the house during that time and had one successful fashion collection created with help of her husband’s associates. The haute couture collections were discontinued and the house turned to production of perfumes, gloves, hosiery and other accessories.

In 1992, the Fath perfume house was acquired by the France Luxury Group company, which reformulated and began to reissue such aromas as FATH de FATH (1993) and GREEN WATER (1993). Octavio Pissaro was the next one to support the legend of the Jacques Fath trade mark, who created for Groupe Emmanuelle Khanh, which has owned the Jacques Fath perfume house since 1997, such wonderful aromas as Eau de Parfum for women Yin (1999), men’s eau de toilette L”Homme (1998), Yang (1999), and also evening versions aromatov Yin and Yang Imperial. Since 2006, for the purpose of restoring the previous reputation and reputation of the Jacques Fat brand; взялась компания Panouge. And the first result of the work of young designers who read the vision of the founder of the brand, who put grace, elegance, happiness, seduction and enchantment at the head, was the reincarnation of the inimitable Iris Gris in the modern version of Irissime.

The house and its products were relaunched by the France Luxury Group in 1992, and then purchased in 1996 by the Banque Saga Group. In 1997 the company was purchased by Groupe Emmanuelle Khanh. The firm became part of the Alliance Designers Group in 2002 and the company was sold again in 2006. Each owner brought with them a new designer to help revive the tradition of the brand.

Jacques Fath fragrances were made in collaboration with perfumers Raphael Haury, Jean-Christophe Hérault, Raymond Chaillan, Olivier Gillotin, Vincent Roubert, Marie Salamagne, Anne Flipo, Cécile Zarokian, Luca Maffei and Patrice Revillard.

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